Replace drum support rollers
If the drum support rollers are worn, try putting bearing grease on them to quiet them up and keep them rolling smoothly, if the rollers are no good, replace all of them. If the noise continues, replace the tensioner roller (see below). Since it takes longer to disassemble the machine than to actually replace the rollers and belts, we recommend replacing or greasing both of them at the same time.
If you have an electric or gas dryer that tumbles but won’t heat, check the thermal fuse for continuity. If the thermal fuse checks out, move on to the Flame sensor and Glow Igniter if you have a gas dryer.
The Flame Sensor monitors the igniter and powers up the gas valve coils when the igniter reaches peak temperature. A broken sensor will stop the whole dryer from working.
Caution!! Don’t get shocked!
Unplug the dryer before you do any disassembly, diagnostic or dryer repair work. On a gas dryer, also turn off the gas supply shutoff valve.
. Test it for continuity and replace it if it fails the continuity test. If the sensor is good, disconnect the electrical connector to the igniter and check it for continuity.
Gas Valve Coils
Again, replace it if it fails the continuity test. If both the flame sensor and the igniter pass the test, replace the gas valve coils. To replace them, remove the retaining plate, unplug the sensors and pull them off the gas valve. They are usually located in the front of the dryer.
If the thermal fuse on your electric dryer checks out, test the heating element for continuity. Replace the heating element if you don’t get continuity
Dryer Won’t Spin?
Don’t know how to fix a dryer belt? You’re in luck—it’s only a broken belt. Remove the front cabinet panel and lift the entire drum out of the cabinet. Now’s the time to fire up your shop vacuum and suck out all the lint.
Broken Dryer Belt
Then spin the tensioner roller by hand to see if it runs smoothly and examine it for cracks. Replace the tensioner if it fails either test.
Replace the belt
Route the new belt around the drum and toward the motor/tensioner assembly. Reach your hands around the motor and retract the tensioner so you can wrap the belt around the motor pulley.
Reinstall the drum and wrap the new belt around it (ribs facing the drum). Some tensioners are mounted behind the motor, so they’re difficult to see from the front access panel.
Dryer Door Won’t Stay Shut
If your dryer door won’t stay closed, chances are the latch is either bent or missing, or the strike is worn.
You’ll have to do this by feel. Reach your hands around the blower housing and lift the tensioner up while you put the belt around the motor pulley.
Quick Fix for a Dryer Door
The fix for this is cheap and easy.
Sometimes simply using a flathead screwdriver to open the gap on the little metal tab that sticks into the door which holds the dryer door closed.
Broken Dryer Door Switch?
- Grab pliers, a couple of small screwdrivers and a roll of masking tape.
- Grab the bent or broken latch and yank it out. Then install the new one, pushing in firmly until the locking tabs seat.
- Jam a small screwdriver into the strike and bend the metal locking tab inward.
- Pry upward with a second screwdriver to pop it out. Snap-in the new strike and you’re back in the laundry business.
- Occasionally it is not the metal tab it’s the square receptacle that receives the tab that needs to be replaced.
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
You’ll also need either a multimeter or a continuity tester and a small screwdriver