Electric Dryer Repair
Electric Dryer Won't Heat up
Electric dryer won't heat troubleshooting video
These troubleshooting tips are for an electric dryer. If you have a gas dryer that won't heat, use these troubleshooting tips in this video.
A dryer that won’t heat can keep both your clothes and your mood damp
In this step by step guide we troubleshoot why your electric dryer won’t heat anymore, including checking the heating element, high-limit thermostat, operating thermostat, thermal cut-off fuse and timer.
Learn about a few easy tests you can run to find the problem, including learning how to use a multi meter to make sure current is flowing between the parts.
Once you know what the issue is, follow our step-by-step guides to fix your dryer—and brighten your spirits.
Check out our DIY dryer repair help page for additional videos, repair guides and articles.
Tools and parts needed
- Multi meter
- Work gloves
- Heating element
- High-limit thermostat
- Operating thermostat
- Thermal cut-off fuse
Remove the back panel from the dryer, then remove the back of the control panel. Unplug the large red wire from terminal "A" on the timer.
Set the multi meter to read ohms of resistance.
Measure resistance between the large red wire on the timer and the heating element terminal where the large red wire is connected.
If you measure near 15 ohms of resistance through this circuit, then you know that the heating element, high-limit thermostat, operating thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse are all okay. You can skip ahead to learn how to check out your timer.
Make sure heating element works
If you measured no electrical continuity, which is an "OL" on your multi meter, then we’ll check the heating element. Place your meter leads on the heating element terminals.
You should measure near 15 ohms of resistance through the heating element. If you measured no continuity, then the heating element is broken.
This video will show you how to replace it. If you measured near 15 ohms of resistance, then the heating element is good.
Check high-limit thermostat
We’ll check the high-limit thermostat next.
Place one meter lead on each terminal of the high-limit thermostat. You should measure near 0 ohms. If you measured no continuity, then the high-limit thermostat will need to be replaced.
Test operating thermostat
If your high-limit thermostat is okay, we’ll check the operating thermostat next.
Place one meter lead on the red wire and the other meter lead on the red-white wire. You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the operating thermostat.
If you measured no continuity, the operating thermostat will need to be replaced.
Did thermal cut-off fuse fail?
If your operating thermostat is good, we’ll check the thermal cut-off fuse next.
Place one meter lead on the red-white wire and the other on the red wire. You should measure near 0 ohms.
If you measured no continuity, you’ll need to replace the thermal cut-off fuse.
Check timer last
If the thermal cut-off fuse is good, we’ll check the timer last.
With the dryer still disconnected, turn the timer to timed dry, high heat. Place one meter lead on terminal "A" with the red wire and the other on terminal "C" with the black wire. If you measured no continuity, then the timer is broken.
Here’s a video that will show you how to replace it.
Other possible problems
If you’ve made it through all these checks and you still haven’t found your problem, you could have a defective motor centrifugal switch, a bad plug or a failed circuit breaker. You'll need to get a service technician to check these for you.
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PARTS | DESCRIPTION | DIFFICULTY | TIME NEEDED
tHERMAL CUT OFF KIT
If the high limit thermostat was to go bad it would result in either
Dryer not heating
Dryer overheating and possibly catching on fire.
The purpose of the 2nd high limit thermostat is to make sure the first high limit thermostat does not fail. They fail pretty frequently.
Want to get a few more dries out of your dryer? Take the high limit thermostat that has failed and slam it on the floor! Sounds crazy but works I have done it many times ...
Thermal cutoff kits only have 2 dryer pieces even though it's called a kit, those pieces are 2 high limit thermostats.
Dryers only need one of the two pieces to run and work correctly.
The thermal cut-off controls how hot the dryer gets. A thermal cutoff kit is easy and cheap
An electric dryer heating element is simple to replace but can cost from $70 - $150 just for the part...
An electric dryer will spin but it will not heat if the heating element breaks and only can be found in electric dryers. Gas Dryers equivalent of the heating element is the gas valve coils
if your in a tight spot or just wanna save a good chunk of money, you could always just use the repair i created which works like a charm, it can be done right now and i bet you have everything to do it with... if not then worst case scenario you gotta hit walmart, harbor freight or even the dollar store real quick.